MINIMALIST CHRISTMAS GIFTS

Entschleunigen (verb || to decelerate; to slow down) is my new favourite German word. It should definitely be included in the list of the 7 German Words We Should Be Using in English.  It sounds so lush and effects me in the most wonderful & calming way - just by saying it out aloud ;)
Applying it to any everyday situation that I find stressful including the hunt down for individual AND conscious gifts for all my family, it sparked the perfect solution - to get all my Christmas shopping done in one magical shop.

Entering Paper and Tea one grey Sunday afternoon before Christmas, we cheered up immediately when invited to take our coats off and greeted with a taster of a delicious blend of black tea, orange and vanilla as well as a piece of cake!  Straight after we were taken on a tour around the shop picking up essential background on the individual benefits and scrumptious smells of the various handpicked and all organic teas and blends sitting in the countless drawers and on display.
With the help of the super-friendly P&T expert we put together a customised selection of some fabulous treats for everyone including: Gent's Choice for sophistcated dandys dads, Wild Child for rebellious little sisters (or brothers), Yogi's Delight for conscious Mums & a Vodka Infused Tea Kit for unconventional step mums (lol).

I only found out about this shop very recently so I was thrilled to discover a completely stress-free shopping experience and fab Christmas presents that can be enjoyed & finished up without surrounding ourselves with more unnecessary clutter!  You can find Paper and Tea twice in Berlin:

- Bleibtreustr. 4, Berlin-Charlottenburg, 10623.
-Alte Schönhauser Straße 50, Berlin-Mitte, 10119.

or online.

CONSCIOUS CHRISTMAS GIFTS

This year I've been plotting to give preluved jewellery gifts to all my friends which gave me the perfect excuse to indulge in my favourite past time - browsing Berlin's vintage markets, this time for some gold old sparkles.  Not only do they make fabulous Christmas treats for a bargain but I absolutely LOVE vintage shopping since it offers a great alternative to conventional gift shopping - saving the planet one reclaimed necklace at a time ;)

I managed to pick up a nice selection of different silver chains which I want to make into pendant necklaces using some decorative paperclips that I've found at Linie Clara Kaesdorf on my last stroll through Mitte.  To add a touch of class I decided to present them inside some re-usable upcycled jewellery bags which I made from old linen sheets I had lying around.

If you are looking to do something similar & fancy a little DIY this weekend you can start getting creative with this easy gift bag tutorial using old table cloths or other decorative materials you can find. In these crazy times of over-consumption it's so precious to experience the joy of giving handmade gifts to your loved ones!!

S(C)ENSUOUS WELLBEING

- Tranquiliity Bath Oil, Neom

- Moon Rivas Collage Artwork by Meric Cantan , Loved & Found

Re-charging my senses instead of feeling overwhelmed by it all is my newly applied motto to stay focused and feel energized throughout a long and hectic winter. So my new routine includes:

HEARING: 10 minute meditation breaks - for positive projection & protection helping me to hear my inner voice and find #peace from within (also helps to battle urges of road rage during Berlin rush hour).

TOUCHING & TASTING: taking time to bake once a week - to try out some delicious and comforting flavours & textures as well as spending quality time with the minis.

SEEING: taking a morning run through the park every so often - to enjoy the changing shades of nature and maintain a sense of groundedness.

SMELLING: and lastly the thing I look forward to the most (let's be honest): a warm silky bath to relax tense muscles and fill my senses with wonderfully fragrant peace and quiet for a perfect night's sleep.

The most essential ingredient for the latter is this great little bottle containing nothing but bliss and goodness. The neom organics tranquillity bath & shower oil contains a very high percentage of pure essential oils, which not only smell wonderful but also have true therapeutic benefits for body and mind!

Since smell is the only sense in the series of five with a direct link to our emotional control centre, essential oils have been found extremely effective to help us release blocked emotions such as anxiety, anger or fear and continuously balance them.

I find it fascinating how we can influence our wellbeing and prepare ourselves for the challenges of modern life by fine-tuning our sensory system. So I was intrigued when I came across a feature in this month's Loved & Found magazine introducing Moon Rivas - a Catalan contemporary choreographer who experiments with technology as a tool to alter human sense in order to enhance the perception of the world that surrounds us.  

As a dancer Moon's performance is dedicated to movement and cued by a seismic sensor which is part of her elbow. In Waiting for Earthquakes she translates vibrations, transmitted whenever the earth starts shaking anywhere in the world, into dance reflecting the intensity of the universal motion of the earth moving.  

To many of us (including myself) the idea of having technology stitched to our body might seem unnatural and from a parallel world but with this multi-sensory experiment the artist sparks the vision of a far more conscious interaction with our planet than your typical smart phone zombie, constantly checking in on Facebook and quickly growing detached from anything natural.

Demonstrating a new take on being rooted in nature, this triggers some very profound questions such as - if we now have the possibility to connect to the planet's heart beat and to amplify our senses to re-discover our world, would that automatically result in us taking better care of it and of our own wellbeing??

SLOW CUSHION

It's time to slow doooown, so this post is out of my new office for the day - our bed. Since moving flats, preparing our new collection and rushing the little men to school and back our lives have adopted a spiralling pace.  After a month of running on adrenaline and coffee I felt the craving to experience the suspension of time and decided to take a step back to the middle.

It is easy to enjoy precious moments once you consciously allow time for them - like catching the first light of the autumn sun on a morning run in the park or watching my little (nine year old!) man helping me prepare dinner, eagerly picking up all the steps and then stirring away with a smile on his face. These are the moments when life reveals a little of its secrets... 

Feeling content by enjoying simple things is something my grandma was an expert in. Thank God she was here long enough to pass on some of her wisdom and skill to me! Fixing things was the thing back in her time and since I can never bring myself to toss precious things I've decided to follow her example by repairing some of my favourite cushions. 

Their covers started to wear thin from washing and loads of little holes and frays appeared which I really liked the look of. To make a feature out of them I lined the area with an old white tea towel from underneath (with sewing machine) and sandwiched a matt gold all over sequin patch in between the cover and the lining.  I used a simple running stitch to apply other left over fabric swatches I had, to cover some of the holes from the top. Finally I framed them by using the same embroidery technique which is very similar to the Japanese art of Sashiko stitching. 

Making these covers took some time but I so enjoyed doing the embroidery, letting go of my routine and worries to soothe my busy mind and regain a sense of sanity among my daily chaos as well as some beautiful new pieces to decorate our bed with - once I'm out :))

NATURAL VISION

- Cushions, Von ERIKA 

- Graphics, Loved & Found

The recent editorial of Loved & Found magazine which was inside my delicious goodie bag from last Friday's Press Speed Dating event at LNFA, quoted the theory of positive uncertainty by American philosopher H.B. Gelatt and explored its incredible relevance in rapidly moving times like ours where changing our minds will be the most important change in the future, and the hardest.

I'm the worst when it comes to making decisions so the approach to think uncertainty is necessary to come to a balanced conclusion about your future is very comforting! It takes off all the pressure and provides the flexibility to adapt to changes about your decisions as the results develop.  So instead of worrying about the outcome it gives you room to focus on your future plans and to follow your vision!

Doing exactly that is newcomer homewear label von ERIKA, the joint venture of artist Tanja Deschner & photographer Christina Eckert who share a fondness for nature and the affinity to capture the beauty and calmness of local forests & wildlife in either pencil or through the lens.
The fusion of their styles is like a breath of green air for your home with cushions and other home fashion items featuring stunning oversized live drawings of wild animals & digital prints of their natural habitats.  When I met Tanja at the LNFA event she was excited to tell me that she studied animals since she was a teenager and can draw them from memory! The label's attention to detail carries through everything they do including the use of GOTS certified materials and organic print colours.
Von ERIKA's pieces are created to comfort and to last and are pieces of art in themselves. I am most certain that is a future plan worth embracing!

NEUES IM OKTOBER

- Fisherman Knit Jumper, Antiform 

- Mini Wool Skirt, ROHstoff
- Gold Bangles, Vintage

- background 'Neues im Oktober, Paul Klee
photo Renata, edit Annett

October represents the month when leaves are falling and temperatures are dropping.  It used to be that my mood dropped right with it and I felt drained of energy and enthusiasm... My outlook on the chillier months completely changed when I came across a painting with a beautiful meaning by modernist painter & Bauhaus teacher Paul Klee called ‘Neues im Oktober’(Fresh Beginnings in October)

Its message is very motivating: Old things starting to fall off to make way for a new beginning. Turning falling leaves into a symbol of hope and new perspective puts a super positive spin on the coming months!!  So let’s embrace the colder season and pack away floaty dresses & flip flops to shine some warm light on crisp tailoring and chunky knits!

For Autumn I like to pick transitional pieces that work well across the season like tailored skirts and shirts. They can be worn as layers even when it gets really cold.  I mix them with wooly knits like this gorgeous hand-knitted jumper from the new Antiform collection made with reclaimed yarns.

Antiform is a unique fashion label with a completely new business model that pushes the boundaries of how to design and produce fashion, working exclusively with waste fabrics sourced from heritage fabric mills & factories in the UK!  

For their new fisherman knit jumpers & dresses, Antiform collaborated with Krenow Knitwear who knit sweaters for the fishing community in Devon and Cornwall. When the owner David decided to retire he approached the Upcycle Label to develop knitwear with all his remaining yarns.
The Antiform knitwear pieces come in different shades but I love this tan colour with a hint of soft tangerine as it adds a new shade to the usual black and grey.  Made me want to get out my vintage bangles and feel all golden & glorious!

A SEASON FOR CHANGE

- boxy jumper, Antiform

- necklace,  vintage

image, Renata, edit Annett

This week has been very exciting.  Not only did I move house but we also moved into a new studio!!
Atelier Kreuzberg is an eclectic mix of artists, designers & software innovators for the creative industries.  With so many productive juices flowing this makes for a great start of my new venture which will soon be revealed right here!
To top it all off I've received a parcel from upcycle label Antiform with two gorgeous jumpers - just in time for the cold season and for my first autumn style post!!  Watch this space :-)

PUZZLE PIECES

I have been tied up with some extremely exciting projects in the last couple of weeks as you might have guessed from my lack of blogging ;)

At the beginning of the month I went to the MUNICH FABRIC START fair.  It was great to see a massive development in the field of sustainable textiles. My favourite discovery were some super soft denim qualities made from Tencel. I would definitely love a pair of jeans made from that!! You can read all about it and more in my report on the brand new sourcebook blog. 

For the rest of the fashion week month of September I have been preparing an upcycling caps collection which will be showcased on HUMANA day this Thursday here in Berlin.  Using pre-used bed linen, table cloths & upcycled clothes from the Humana vintage store I put together some simple blouses & geometric tops featuring scattered silk left overs and bits of lace.

Also included in the new collection is a deconstructed sweat shirt. In the process of making the pattern I found a great way to revive pre-used jogging pants as their trouser legs make excellent sleeves. For the front panel I jigsawed different pieces of lurex silk mixing silver and copper, hmm!!

So here comes a sneak peak of the new ROHstoff cropped sweat top. The sweater will also be showcased in Thursday's installation and can be pre-ordered from now. Just drop me a line via email or in the comment box together with your email address.

HUMANA People Day: 24th September 2015, from 2pm, Frankfurter Tor 3 | Berlin 10243. 

TRANSPARENT LUREX MESH MAXI SKIRT

- Jungle Fever print swimsuit, We Are Handsome

- up-cycled mesh maxi skirt

- Jungle Fever print artwork, We Are Handsome

- silver espadrilles, TOMS

Following the tropical temperatures we had in Berlin the past few weeks all I wanted to do was to cool off. We decided to try some of the nearby lakes (Groß Glienicker See & Schlachtensee) and were pleasantly surprised.  The water was amazingly clear and the kiddos absolutely loved exploring the 'wild jungle' forests ;) 

Since I like to carry as little as possible I decided to quickly upcycle myself a new maxi skirt to go with my jungle-fever swimsuit. The lush silver lurex mesh was an obvious choice of fabric since I love all things sparkly. I decided to contrast it with a waistband made from sporty cycling jersey which I had left over from the bomber jacket. The skirt has become a new favourite and creates an array of possible outfit mix-ups such as printed beach top combos for various occasions - everything from a lakeside or forest-midnight outing to just hanging with friends on a warm Summer evening.

Making the mesh maxi skirt requires a little time, some transparent sparkly mesh (or any jersey you have hanging around the house, maybe an old tube dress, etc.), some more jersey for the waistband, some elastic and a sewing machine.

I don’t even remember where I got this fabric from since people donate their preluved things to me all the time ;) 

It’s been in my to-upcycle pile for quite some time and already came as a long tube. Since the fabric is very transparent I folded excess fabric to the inside of the tube to create an under-layer and then added an elasticated waistband to the fold-over edge at the top.

1|| To prepare the skirt body you can also use a large jersey rectangle, fold in half & join at side seam.

2|| Prepare your elasticated waistband as per instructions, seal elastic at ends with overlocker and close waistband by stitching opposite ends together.

3|| Attach waistband to skirt by threading top of skirt through closed waistband - so the skirt lays inside the waistband - and stitch into place.

UPCYCLED DENIM SKIRT TUTORIAL

As promised I will show you how to make your own denim pencil from an old pair of jeans to complete your summer wardrobe. You will need a pair of old jeans, a sewing machine, tape measure, chalk, thread & pins and a craft knife for distressing - I chose a pair of stretchy denims since it gives a little more around the hip area but non-stretch jeans will be fine too.

1|| find a suitable pair of jeans (my sample is a size 8)
2|| on my sample I measured ca.27cm from top of waistband at side seam to determine cut off line
3|| mark with chalk and repeat on opposite side seam (includes 1cm seam allowance)
4|| cut off denim legs in straight (this is important) line and prepare bottom half
5|| prepare top half of skirt
6|| join top & bottom halves of skirt by pinning in place first before you sew them together
7|| add distress by scratching & slicing denim in desired places, finish off with a wash and fray extra if you wish!

Please let me know how you get on & show me a snapshot of your version on instagram :))

TRANSPARENT CLUTCH TUTORIAL

Summer holidays are a perfect time for creating some easy DIY accessories. The transparent clutch completes an easy summer outfit and is perfect to protect your essentials from splashes & sandy beaches.
In past season designers like Maison Martin Margiela have taken on the minimal cool of bubble wrap to define a futuristic look. To mix things up, you can experiment with various packaging materials or giant bubble wrap!
This simple tutorial only requires a sewing machine or heat sealer as well as:

// one large sheet of bubble wrap
// two press buttons (metal colour of your choice)

I up-cycled a bubble wrap bag from old delivery packaging with the sides already heat-sealed. But you can just fold up a single sheet of bubble wrap and sew up the sides with dtm or contrast cotton (left sides together).
Decide on size and style. My bag is a clean rectangle (40cm x 30cm) double folded (in this case 80cm x 30cm). Sew up sides and apply press buttons according to instructions (please see sketch for positioning). Fold over - close - done!

SUSTAINABLE SUMMER OUTFIT

- easy fit kimono top from re-used pillow cases, ROHstoff

- up-cycled denim pencil skirt

- up-cycled transparent clutch

- silver espadrilles, TOMS

.

Just in time for my holidays I fixed myself my first entirely sustainable outfit which ticks a whole spectrum of ethical fashion boxes ;)
The easy fit kimono top is one of my favourite shapes and an essential piece in my wardrobe because it looks great paired with all sorts of bottoms such as pencils, maxi skirts or jeans. Its light weight cotton quality from reclaimed pillow cases makes it perfect for summer.
I've always wanted a denim pencil skirt because they are so easy to wear - I up-cycled an old pair of stretch denim jeans and added some wear & tear for a distressed finish.  This is moderately easy to make yourself and I will explain more in one of the upcoming tutorials!!
The transparent clutch is nothing more than two sheets of bubble wrap with two brass press buttons attached to it. I love the sheer look and it's pretty convenient for protecting your mobile, sunnies & lippy at the beach!
I absolutely adore my new silver mesh espadrilles - they put a completely new spin on many of my existing outfits. Now I can easily re-mix a new holiday look without having to buy heaps of new clothes! On top of that they feel extremely comfortable and make for a conscious buy with their One for One^® business model that will match every pair of shoes purchased with a new pair of shoes for a child in need :))

COUNT DOWN TO ZERO

Supposedly around 15% of textiles end up on the cutting room floors whilst making a garment. So that means that a considerable amount of the gorgeous fabrics that I pick as a designer will go to waste.  Seems such a shame especially when you consider all the natural resources, creative design-work and human labour that have been invested in making these cloths.
The ROHstoff-concept tries to address this issue by upcycling new fabric left overs into new garments like our gorgeous upcycled bomber jacket.

But there are more and very creative approaches to deal with the so called pre-consumer textile waste: emerging designers like Natascha von Hirschhausen & Elke Fiebig have started to adopt a zero-waste design technique which ultimately reduces textile waste at the design-stage!
Their work is the result of an exchange program between fashion design alumnis from Bangladesh and Berlin which they participated in.
Aiming for sustainability-focused production methods like zero-waste draping and left-overs sourcing from the industry the designers collections combine eastern aesthetics and loose-fitting silhouettes with classic western tailoring.

Some of the Bangladeshi contributors of the program like Iftekhar Rahman decided to work on post-consumer waste concerns and wove memories and dreams of second-hand saris into a new Kantha-material by applying an old traditional quilting method.
From these upcycled fabrics he made a collection of oversized coats & jackets that can be worn on both sides and aim to reduce the need to consume (genius ;)

The work of all twelve participating designers is presented at the exhibition LOCAL - INTERNATIONAL  (sadly ending today!!) - it's an absolute must-see that features great innovation & consideration for the future of fashion!

You can find out more from the designtransfer platform of the Berlin University of Arts and the designtransfer Facebook page.

I WOOD LIKE THESE!

The Fashion Week hype is heightening with all eyes on Berlin for this week and I decided to follow an invitation by startup concept-store LNFA to start off in style with a blogwalk party.  Following recent events and especially a great conference in Hamburg at designxport I've been finding out a great deal about new sustainable materials in the product design scene from one of my fellow speakers - Dr. Sascha Peters.
So I was extremely excited to see that there are similar efforts being made by emerging fashion brands when I ran into a maze of wooden sunglasses hanging from the massive concrete ceiling at the Bikini Berlin based space.
Made by Kerbholz, a young accessory brand from Germany the glasses (and watches) are mainly constructed from wood, come in all the right shapes & look incredibly sharp.  I was absolutely taken by Leopold, made from ebony & cellulose acetate!!
But what I loved most about them was that the designers put in considerable amounts of effort into developing a product which ends up in the earth rather than on top of it.
For me, as a designer that has become imperative - and I am absolutely certain that biodegradable & sustainable innovation packaged with compelling aesthetics will be the longest lasting trend, not just for this season ;)

FIXING FASHION

War on Want is a UK based charity that fights poverty in developing countries together with grassroots organisations and people affected by globalisation.  Especially since the Rana Plaza factory collapse the fashion world woke up to the ugly truth of globalisation, I remember I did! Instead of fostering growth through innovation and passing on knowledge to the people & communities in the countries that are manufacturing our cheap clothing, globalisation shifted the power to huge transnational companies who started operating free of any social, economic or environmental concern.

Fast fashion is one big problem of our commercial clothing industry. It exists because of the huge consumer demand for incredibly low priced fashion, which creates a vicious cycle where one feeds the other...  I decided I no longer want to be part of it because at the end of the day we as consumers have the power to choose (wisely;)

To reduce my fashion consumption I set myself a wardrobe challenge to not buy any new clothes and instead either swap, buy vintage or refurbish!  I have to be honest, I do fancy something new to wear every so often and it is only natural that you go off certain shapes after a while!
This summer I started to scan my wardrobe for things that I still like but which I am not wearing for one reason or another.  First thing I chose was this leopard-print top.  I absolutely love animal prints but found the shape slightly unflattering.  To introduce a little fabric interest and translate it into a more drapey silhouette I inserted some metallic black jesrey left overs and fixed my need for new ;)

STEP BY STEP

If you have similar tops or tees you want to fix-up for a new summer look you can follow the step by step upcycle-tutorial.

KNOT-ED

Friday afternoon upcycling sessions have become a little treat since I rarely find the time - they are incredibly fun and a fab way to get fresh inspiration! 

This time I was in the great company of stylist & sustainable fashion expert Renata Hori.  Renata has recently launched her social accessory label KNOT featuring bags & jewellery made from golden grass that will showcase in next months upcycling show celebrating the 50th anniversary of Waste Management Association AWISTA.

ROHstoff & KNOT collaborated on a small series of dresses upcycled from pre-used mens shirts to underpin the bags on the catwalk.  

The brief was to create garments which would mirror the conceptual and geometric aesthetic of the bags using consciously considered materials.  It was an intense process to deconstruct, re-shape and re-assemble the shirts but absolutely exciting to polish a new look by giving these old garms a new lift!  The impromptu photo shoot afterwards left us with plenty of material to feed our instagram from which we already received amazing feedback and one order!!  

The fashion show wertSTOFF zündSTOFF – eco fashion, recycling & upcycling in cooporation with Zimt Casting will take place on 19th June 2015 at 7pm at Wertstoffhof, Petersbrunnerstr. 3b, 82319 Starnberg.

UPCYCLED MEMORIES

So it happens sometimes that life feels suffocating because you have taken on too many tasks (me last month - sorry for the long silence!) and then you step out of the U-bahn one day, the sun shines in your face, there is music in the air and you enter a great space filled with art, knowledge and unreserved people (me last night) and you suddenly get your spark back (ahh :)

Following a spontaneous invitation by textile designer Olga Tiernan, who I interviewed the week before when travelling to Ireland, I found myself at the Irish Embassy in Berlin for the opening of Bungalow Bliss.  For this new exhibition Berlin-based Irish artist Adrian Duncan paired up with Olga to showcase a brief series of works based on a publication of Jack Fritzsimon's catalogue of plans with pre-designed Irish houses that populated the Irish landscape throughout the 1970s until the 1990s.

I was captured by the enthusiasm in which both artists re-interpreted the style of the buildings they grew up with and how components of particular memories translated into new works of art.  Adrian used photographs, collages and video installation to map styling details of the bungalows past which were an authentic expression of what was going on in Ireland at the time and Olga's centrepiece was a hand-printed canvas length with a repeated screen print design representing the cladding used on the outside of the houses.  Having grown up in a bungalow-style house herself Olga felt inspired by the pastel painted rooms of her childhood memories - hues she re-created for her piece and which illustrate how memories shape the cultivation of our aesthetic values and build the framework for creative inspiration.

Back in Dublin Olga co-runs the very successful screen-printing collective PRINT BLOCK, a membership based print studio that offers screen-printing workshops as well as affordable access to a fully equipped professional textile print facility.

PRINT BLOCK is definitely worth a visit should you happen to pass by Dublin and makes for a great & memorable experience... ;)

FEATHERED CHIC

Feathers seem to be an obvious choice given the season - so I thought it the perfect time to introduce the new feather-printed PreSpoked Bomber Jacket which we made entirely from silk left overs and preloved cycling jerseys.  This is the first prototype and we're so proud of how it turned out!!  Soon the jacket will be available to order, so stay tuned and Happy Easter everyone:))

PRESPOKED | by ROHstoff

For ROHstoff's most recent collaboration I've partnered up with cycling-pro Darren.  The new line PreSpoked will feature casual wardrobe items as well as accessories upcycled from specialist cycling gear to fit an active as well as social life style - watch this space... :)

FASHION HACKERS

1 knitted patch Jessie English

2 Tennis Star Jessie English, photograph Shaun Lucas

3 Trainer Trafo Pop

4 Electronics & Textile Institute Berlin

If you always wanted to knit yourself a crazy pattern hat or a cozy jumper but had no idea how to (or no time like me) - you needn't have worried! The hacked knitting machine from All Yarns Are Beautiful (AYAB) uses an Arduino board which controls the colour changes and plugs into your computer via USB so now you can start knitting from your laptop :))

The AYAB makers upgraded an old Brother knitting machine by replacing the existing control board with an electronic one which they developed and because the AYAB controller uses all 200 needles of the machine you can come up with almost limitless pattern designs.

It was one of the coolest things on display from the Electronic + Textile Institute Berlin (ETIB) who exhibited at Berlin Fashion Week's FashionTech Lab last month.

ETIB's former artist in residence Jessie English has been experimenting with the hacked knitting machine to build up an intriguing portfolio. The designer's knitted tennis sleeve is an absolute must - have for the has-it-all bachelor.  It carries the spontaneous notion of a sweet-wrapper, underlining her approach of refreshing untaintedness.  By integrating digital technology into her work with the use of unconventional materials Jessie leads an extremely inspiring path to textile innovation.  

Wearable technologies are no doubt the new stars on the fashion horizon and have made revolutionary progress - not long and we'll be able to print the cool Trafo Pop trainers ourselves!!

BERLIN | AW15.16

DARK CRUSADER
1 AutumnWinter15.16 Odeur, photo Posh
2 Wool Cape Elsien Gringhuis
3 Suit of Armour Leather Jacket & Leather Shorts Phoebe Heess
edited by me

COOL AS ICE
1 Kimono Cardi Komana
2 Staciatella Jumper Here Today Here Tomorrow
3 Sorbet Cardigan Studio Jux
4 Felt Like Heaven Jessie English
edited by me

Dark Crusader
Protective textile innovations and crusader-worthy capes were a prominent message from many Berlin collections this season.  Bavaria-based designer Phoebe Heess was exploring suits of armour and reflective lights as protection for her everyday super heroine.  Her square-shoulder leather jacket exhibited at SEEK's FashionTech Lab is made with Kevlar inserts - a light weight fibre originating from combat clothing with safe-keeping and cut resistant qualities.

Dutch design house Elsien Gringhuis presented chapter two of their collection of stories.  The beautifully draped cape made from 100% wool offers protection and comfort at the same time, regardless if you are on the road or relaxing on your couch.

Disguising her vulnerability the Odeur woman sported a courageous look in preparation for the darker season.  The oversized bomber jacket with emphasised shoulders, featured on the Swedish label's AW15 catwalk, conveyed a need for protection in modern society and is perfectly suited to keep you wrapped up next season.

Cool as Ice
Mmm.  Scrumptious looking ice cream colours emerged as inspiration for the latest collection of socially committed and environmental conscious knitwear label Here There Here Tomorrow. Flavours like stracciatella and peppermint translated into chocolate sprinkled jumpers and cozy hats topped with pale green pom poms made from 100% biodegradable fibres.  Showing for the first time in Berlin at the Ethical Fashion Show the British brand is just going to melt your heart with their playful approach to current, high quality designs combined with fair-trade craftsmanship.

Award winning dutch design Studio Jux whipped up a delightful mix of berry sorbets with this lovely long and chunky cardigan.  Blended with the luxurious blouse in soft pistachio which features closed-loop eco fibre Tencel this look also captures Autumn's fascination with contrasting textures.
Adding to the heavenly mix of Vanilla & Co. is London label Komana's cream Kimono cardigan with hand-painted dots on organic cotton jersey as well as Jessie English's knitted felt slippers - they're just the coolest accessory to brighten up a gloomy winter's day:))

FISHERMAN'S FRIEND

1 Knitted Swatch Studio Jux
2 AutumnWinter15.16 Esther Perbandt, photo Posh

3 Homeland Collection Inspiration & Knitted Outfit Doppelganger

3 Fisherman Hat MeinFrollein

4 AutumnWinter 15.16 Rebekka Ruétz, photo Posh
edited by me

Causing a storm this Berlin Fashion Week was a strong sentiment for fine quality knitwear influenced by traditional garment detailing of hard working fishermen translated into big flowing silhouettes on skirts & coats and paired with modern, constructed patterns.

The designer of Icelandic newcomer label Doppelganger took inspiration from 17th century heritage fishermen textiles and re-worked traditional patterns into symmetrical composed knits. Delicate leggings and second-skin-like tops made from sustainable wool and mulberry silk blended yarns delivered a compelling aesthetic of balance and wellbeing, leaving you with nothing but a clear conscience.

Transparency on and off the catwalk was a popular source of inspiration at Esther Perbandt.  The designer made waves earlier last year when she went on a trip to research local textile production conditions in Bangladesh.  Her new Autumn Winter collection featured lovely light woven knits with a sheer quality to it reminding me of the structure of fishing nets.  They made for a bold statement when placed against the clean cut woollen coats featured on the catwalk, promoting a confident and modern look with a soft feminine angle.

Comfort and purity were buzzwords at knitted accessories brand MeinFrollein.  Absolute highlight were the soft merino fishermen beanies which can be worn #InsideOut without revealing any conflicting labels.  The production is fair and Germany based - there's nothing fishy about that ;)

TREND | Jean-ious

1 recycle rug indigo

2 denim jacket

3 camper seat

4 tie dye jeans

Berlin Fashion Week was hosting some great trade fairs last week where I discovered two labels producing stunning and at the same time absolutely consciously made Jeans.  

Wunderwerk from Germany impressed with a authentic denim range tapping into one of the big trends this season with their bold tie-dye finishes.  Their jeans are designed and produced with a minimal environmental impact in mind.

Nudie Jeans from Sweden showcased an eclectic and well developed range of crafted high quality denim pieces.  The brand provides an in-depth production guide for each garment they sell on their web site.  That way the customer can trace back their jeans and find exact information of where, how and by whom it's been made.  The concept of breaking-in, repairing, re-using and recycling jeans is explained in great detail on their homepage and very popular with their regulars who can redeem old jeans for a discount on a new pair.  The gorgeous denim rug and camper chairs are just a few upcycled products that have made a come-back out of the factory lab onto the shop floor.

Highlight of the presented collection were the customized and printed denim jackets with a reminiscent feel of retro to it - totally in tune with my current denim obsession :))

SHADES OF DENIM

I'm extremely liking this new all over denim trend which seems to be happening everywhere on and off the catwalks at the moment.

The recent issue of Fräulein magazine did a whole spread on it with the fresh faced American Kelly Mittendorf. The story is a great source of inspiration if you're looking to upcycle your old jeans into some new tops or dresses!
Stay tuned for some more trends coming through from this weeks Berlin fashion spectacle - whoop :))

photos: Jay Odell for Fräulein magazine

editing: Annett Borg

HAPPY | New Jeans

My new year started on a fast beat collaborating on creating a catwalk look for ecological denim label sey - fashion.  The assignment was to create tops to complement the new Autumn Winter collection of organic jeans.  Tuning in with the seasons denim revival I wanted to go for a head-to-toe denim look upcycling the label's jeans styles that had been classed as damaged or factory seconds.

This was an extremely exciting project to get involved with, even more so since I've recently been thinking of solutions to re-use all the preluvd denim trousers that I have packed away in storage!  Denim is an excellent material to work with and creates beautiful and bold silhouettes - but can still be draped and generate a lot of movement.

I decided on a tunic shape drawing inspiration from the clean lines of Bauhaus architecture.  I also attempted a denim cap for the first time ever and loved re-assembling the trouser leg seams for a deconstructed but neat look.  The most exciting thing about working with organic denim is knowing that it all has been manufactured with minimal water waste and low energy consumption.  It was definitely worth it and felt really rewarding giving those jeans a new live...

The finished outfit will be shown at next week's Salonshow featured by Greenshowroom Berlin. Whoop:))  Good times!