FIXING FASHION


War on Want is a UK based charity that fights poverty in developing countries together with grassroots organisations and people affected by globalisation.  Especially since the Rana Plaza factory collapse the fashion world woke up to the ugly truth of globalisation, I remember I did! Instead of fostering growth through innovation and passing on knowledge to the people & communities in the countries that are manufacturing our cheap clothing, globalisation shifted the power to huge transnational companies who started operating free of any social, economic or environmental concern.

Fast fashion is one big problem of our commercial clothing industry. It exists because of the huge consumer demand for incredibly low priced fashion, which creates a vicious cycle where one feeds the other...  I decided I no longer want to be part of it because at the end of the day we as consumers have the power to choose (wisely;)

To reduce my fashion consumption I set myself a wardrobe challenge to not buy any new clothes and instead either swap, buy vintage or refurbish!  I have to be honest, I do fancy something new to wear every so often and it is only natural that you go off certain shapes after a while!
This summer I started to scan my wardrobe for things that I still like but which I am not wearing for one reason or another.  First thing I chose was this leopard-print top.  I absolutely love animal prints but found the shape slightly unflattering.  To introduce a little fabric interest and translate it into a more drapey silhouette I inserted some metallic black jesrey left overs and fixed my need for new ;)


STEP BY STEP

If you have similar tops or tees you want to fix-up for a new summer look you can follow the step by step upcycle-tutorial.

KNOT-ED


Friday afternoon upcycling sessions have become a little treat since I rarely find the time - they are incredibly fun and a fab way to get fresh inspiration! 
This time I was in the great company of stylist & sustainable fashion expert Renata Hori.  Renata has recently launched her social accessory label KNOT featuring bags & jewellery made from golden grass that will showcase in next months upcycling show celebrating the 50th anniversary of Waste Management Association AWISTA.
ROHstoff & KNOT collaborated on a small series of dresses upcycled from pre-used mens shirts to underpin the bags on the catwalk.  
The brief was to create garments which would mirror the conceptual and geometric aesthetic of the bags using consciously considered materials.  It was an intense process to deconstruct, re-shape and re-assemble the shirts but absolutely exciting to polish a new look by giving these old garms a new lift!  The impromptu photo shoot afterwards left us with plenty of material to feed our instagram from which we already received amazing feedback and one order!!  

The fashion show wertSTOFF zündSTOFF – eco fashion, recycling & upcycling in cooporation with Zimt Casting will take place on 19th June 2015 at 7pm at Wertstoffhof, Petersbrunnerstr. 3b, 82319 Starnberg.

UPCYCLED MEMORIES




So it happens sometimes that life feels suffocating because you have taken on too many tasks (me last month - sorry for the long silence!) and then you step out of the U-bahn one day, the sun shines in your face, there is music in the air and you enter a great space filled with art, knowledge and unreserved people (me last night) and you suddenly get your spark back (ahh :)

Following a spontaneous invitation by textile designer Olga Tiernan, who I interviewed the week before when travelling to Ireland, I found myself at the Irish Embassy in Berlin for the opening of Bungalow Bliss.  For this new exhibition Berlin-based Irish artist Adrian Duncan paired up with Olga to showcase a brief series of works based on a publication of Jack Fritzsimon's catalogue of plans with pre-designed Irish houses that populated the Irish landscape throughout the 1970s until the 1990s.

I was captured by the enthusiasm in which both artists re-interpreted the style of the buildings they grew up with and how components of particular memories translated into new works of art.  Adrian used photographs, collages and video installation to map styling details of the bungalows past which were an authentic expression of what was going on in Ireland at the time and Olga's centrepiece was a hand-printed canvas length with a repeated screen print design representing the cladding used on the outside of the houses.  Having grown up in a bungalow-style house herself Olga felt inspired by the pastel painted rooms of her childhood memories - hues she re-created for her piece and which illustrate how memories shape the cultivation of our aesthetic values and build the framework for creative inspiration.

Back in Dublin Olga co-runs the very successful screen-printing collective PRINT BLOCK, a membership based print studio that offers screen-printing workshops as well as affordable access to a fully equipped professional textile print facility.
PRINT BLOCK is definitely worth a visit should you happen to pass by Dublin and makes for a great & memorable experience... ;)

FEATHERED CHIC


Feathers seem to be an obvious choice given the season - so I thought it the perfect time to introduce the new feather-printed PreSpoked Bomber Jacket which we made entirely from silk left overs and preloved cycling jerseys.  This is the first prototype and we're so proud of how it turned out!!  Soon the jacket will be available to order, so stay tuned and Happy Easter everyone:))

PRESPOKED | by ROHstoff


For ROHstoff's most recent collaboration I've partnered up with cycling-pro Darren.  The new line PreSpoked will feature casual wardrobe items as well as accessories upcycled from specialist cycling gear to fit an active as well as social life style - watch this space... :)

FASHION HACKERS


1 knitted patch Jessie English
2 Tennis Star Jessie English, photograph Shaun Lucas
3 Trainer Trafo Pop

If you always wanted to knit yourself a crazy pattern hat or a cozy jumper but had no idea how to (or no time like me) - you needn't have worried! The hacked knitting machine from All Yarns Are Beautiful (AYAB) uses an Arduino board which controls the colour changes and plugs into your computer via USB so now you can start knitting from your laptop :))

The AYAB makers upgraded an old Brother knitting machine by replacing the existing control board with an electronic one which they developed and because the AYAB controller uses all 200 needles of the machine you can come up with almost limitless pattern designs.

It was one of the coolest things on display from the Electronic + Textile Institute Berlin (ETIB) who exhibited at Berlin Fashion Week's FashionTech Lab last month.
ETIB's former artist in residence Jessie English has been experimenting with the hacked knitting machine to build up an intriguing portfolio. The designer's knitted tennis sleeve is an absolute must - have for the has-it-all bachelor.  It carries the spontaneous notion of a sweet-wrapper, underlining her approach of refreshing untaintedness.  By integrating digital technology into her work with the use of unconventional materials Jessie leads an extremely inspiring path to textile innovation.  

Wearable technologies are no doubt the new stars on the fashion horizon and have made revolutionary progress - not long and we'll be able to print the cool Trafo Pop trainers ourselves!!

BERLIN | AW15.16

DARK CRUSADER
1 AutumnWinter15.16 Odeur, photo Posh
2 Wool Cape Elsien Gringhuis
3 Suit of Armour Leather Jacket & Leather Shorts Phoebe Heess
edited by me
COOL AS ICE
1 Kimono Cardi Komana
2 Staciatella Jumper Here Today Here Tomorrow
3 Sorbet Cardigan Studio Jux
4 Felt Like Heaven Jessie English
edited by me
Dark Crusader
Protective textile innovations and crusader-worthy capes were a prominent message from many Berlin collections this season.  Bavaria-based designer Phoebe Heess was exploring suits of armour and reflective lights as protection for her everyday super heroine.  Her square-shoulder leather jacket exhibited at SEEK's FashionTech Lab is made with Kevlar inserts - a light weight fibre originating from combat clothing with safe-keeping and cut resistant qualities.

Dutch design house Elsien Gringhuis presented chapter two of their collection of stories.  The beautifully draped cape made from 100% wool offers protection and comfort at the same time, regardless if you are on the road or relaxing on your couch.

Disguising her vulnerability the Odeur woman sported a courageous look in preparation for the darker season.  The oversized bomber jacket with emphasised shoulders, featured on the Swedish label's AW15 catwalk, conveyed a need for protection in modern society and is perfectly suited to keep you wrapped up next season.

Cool as Ice
Mmm.  Scrumptious looking ice cream colours emerged as inspiration for the latest collection of socially committed and environmental conscious knitwear label Here There Here Tomorrow. Flavours like stracciatella and peppermint translated into chocolate sprinkled jumpers and cozy hats topped with pale green pom poms made from 100% biodegradable fibres.  Showing for the first time in Berlin at the Ethical Fashion Show the British brand is just going to melt your heart with their playful approach to current, high quality designs combined with fair-trade craftsmanship.

Award winning dutch design Studio Jux whipped up a delightful mix of berry sorbets with this lovely long and chunky cardigan.  Blended with the luxurious blouse in soft pistachio which features closed-loop eco fibre Tencel this look also captures Autumn's fascination with contrasting textures.
Adding to the heavenly mix of Vanilla & Co. is London label Komana's cream Kimono cardigan with hand-painted dots on organic cotton jersey as well as Jessie English's knitted felt slippers - they're just the coolest accessory to brighten up a gloomy winter's day:))

FISHERMAN'S FRIEND

1 Knitted Swatch Studio Jux
2 AutumnWinter15.16 Esther Perbandt, photo Posh
3 Homeland Collection Inspiration & Knitted Outfit Doppelganger
3 Fisherman Hat MeinFrollein
4 AutumnWinter 15.16 Rebekka Ruétz, photo Posh
edited by me
Causing a storm this Berlin Fashion Week was a strong sentiment for fine quality knitwear influenced by traditional garment detailing of hard working fishermen translated into big flowing silhouettes on skirts & coats and paired with modern, constructed patterns.

The designer of Icelandic newcomer label Doppelganger took inspiration from 17th century heritage fishermen textiles and re-worked traditional patterns into symmetrical composed knits. Delicate leggings and second-skin-like tops made from sustainable wool and mulberry silk blended yarns delivered a compelling aesthetic of balance and wellbeing, leaving you with nothing but a clear conscience.

Transparency on and off the catwalk was a popular source of inspiration at Esther Perbandt.  The designer made waves earlier last year when she went on a trip to research local textile production conditions in Bangladesh.  Her new Autumn Winter collection featured lovely light woven knits with a sheer quality to it reminding me of the structure of fishing nets.  They made for a bold statement when placed against the clean cut woollen coats featured on the catwalk, promoting a confident and modern look with a soft feminine angle.

Comfort and purity were buzzwords at knitted accessories brand MeinFrollein.  Absolute highlight were the soft merino fishermen beanies which can be worn #InsideOut without revealing any conflicting labels.  The production is fair and Germany based - there's nothing fishy about that ;)

TREND | Jean-ious

Berlin Fashion Week was hosting some great trade fairs last week where I discovered two labels producing stunning and at the same time absolutely consciously made Jeans.  

Wunderwerk from Germany impressed with a authentic denim range tapping into one of the big trends this season with their bold tie-dye finishes.  Their jeans are designed and produced with a minimal environmental impact in mind.

Nudie Jeans from Sweden showcased an eclectic and well developed range of crafted high quality denim pieces.  The brand provides an in-depth production guide for each garment they sell on their web site.  That way the customer can trace back their jeans and find exact information of where, how and by whom it's been made.  The concept of breaking-in, repairing, re-using and recycling jeans is explained in great detail on their homepage and very popular with their regulars who can redeem old jeans for a discount on a new pair.  The gorgeous denim rug and camper chairs are just a few upcycled products that have made a come-back out of the factory lab onto the shop floor.
Highlight of the presented collection were the customized and printed denim jackets with a reminiscent feel of retro to it - totally in tune with my current denim obsession :))


SHADES OF DENIM


I'm extremely liking this new all over denim trend which seems to be happening everywhere on and off the catwalks at the moment.
The recent issue of Fräulein magazine did a whole spread on it with the fresh faced American Kelly Mittendorf. The story is a great source of inspiration if you're looking to upcycle your old jeans into some new tops or dresses!
Stay tuned for some more trends coming through from this weeks Berlin fashion spectacle - whoop :))

photos: Jay Odell for Fräulein magazine
editing: Annett Borg

HAPPY | New Jeans



My new year started on a fast beat collaborating on creating a catwalk look for ecological denim label sey - fashion.  The assignment was to create tops to complement the new Autumn Winter collection of organic jeans.  Tuning in with the seasons denim revival I wanted to go for a head-to-toe denim look upcycling the label's jeans styles that had been classed as damaged or factory seconds.

This was an extremely exciting project to get involved with, even more so since I've recently been thinking of solutions to re-use all the preluvd denim trousers that I have packed away in storage!  Denim is an excellent material to work with and creates beautiful and bold silhouettes - but can still be draped and generate a lot of movement.

I decided on a tunic shape drawing inspiration from the clean lines of Bauhaus architecture.  I also attempted a denim cap for the first time ever and loved re-assembling the trouser leg seams for a deconstructed but neat look.  The most exciting thing about working with organic denim is knowing that it all has been manufactured with minimal water waste and low energy consumption.  It was definitely worth it and felt really rewarding giving those jeans a new live...

The finished outfit will be shown at next week's Salonshow featured by Greenshowroom Berlin. Whoop:))  Good times!