NEUES IM OKTOBER

- Fisherman Knit Jumper, Antiform 

- Mini Wool Skirt, ROHstoff
- Gold Bangles, Vintage

- background 'Neues im Oktober, Paul Klee
photo Renata, edit Annett

October represents the month when leaves are falling and temperatures are dropping.  It used to be that my mood dropped right with it and I felt drained of energy and enthusiasm... My outlook on the chillier months completely changed when I came across a painting with a beautiful meaning by modernist painter & Bauhaus teacher Paul Klee called ‘Neues im Oktober’(Fresh Beginnings in October)

Its message is very motivating: Old things starting to fall off to make way for a new beginning. Turning falling leaves into a symbol of hope and new perspective puts a super positive spin on the coming months!!  So let’s embrace the colder season and pack away floaty dresses & flip flops to shine some warm light on crisp tailoring and chunky knits!

For Autumn I like to pick transitional pieces that work well across the season like tailored skirts and shirts. They can be worn as layers even when it gets really cold.  I mix them with wooly knits like this gorgeous hand-knitted jumper from the new Antiform collection made with reclaimed yarns.

Antiform is a unique fashion label with a completely new business model that pushes the boundaries of how to design and produce fashion, working exclusively with waste fabrics sourced from heritage fabric mills & factories in the UK!  

For their new fisherman knit jumpers & dresses, Antiform collaborated with Krenow Knitwear who knit sweaters for the fishing community in Devon and Cornwall. When the owner David decided to retire he approached the Upcycle Label to develop knitwear with all his remaining yarns.
The Antiform knitwear pieces come in different shades but I love this tan colour with a hint of soft tangerine as it adds a new shade to the usual black and grey.  Made me want to get out my vintage bangles and feel all golden & glorious!

TRANSPARENT LUREX MESH MAXI SKIRT

- Jungle Fever print swimsuit, We Are Handsome

- up-cycled mesh maxi skirt

- Jungle Fever print artwork, We Are Handsome

- silver espadrilles, TOMS

Following the tropical temperatures we had in Berlin the past few weeks all I wanted to do was to cool off. We decided to try some of the nearby lakes (Groß Glienicker See & Schlachtensee) and were pleasantly surprised.  The water was amazingly clear and the kiddos absolutely loved exploring the 'wild jungle' forests ;) 

Since I like to carry as little as possible I decided to quickly upcycle myself a new maxi skirt to go with my jungle-fever swimsuit. The lush silver lurex mesh was an obvious choice of fabric since I love all things sparkly. I decided to contrast it with a waistband made from sporty cycling jersey which I had left over from the bomber jacket. The skirt has become a new favourite and creates an array of possible outfit mix-ups such as printed beach top combos for various occasions - everything from a lakeside or forest-midnight outing to just hanging with friends on a warm Summer evening.

Making the mesh maxi skirt requires a little time, some transparent sparkly mesh (or any jersey you have hanging around the house, maybe an old tube dress, etc.), some more jersey for the waistband, some elastic and a sewing machine.

I don’t even remember where I got this fabric from since people donate their preluved things to me all the time ;) 

It’s been in my to-upcycle pile for quite some time and already came as a long tube. Since the fabric is very transparent I folded excess fabric to the inside of the tube to create an under-layer and then added an elasticated waistband to the fold-over edge at the top.

1|| To prepare the skirt body you can also use a large jersey rectangle, fold in half & join at side seam.

2|| Prepare your elasticated waistband as per instructions, seal elastic at ends with overlocker and close waistband by stitching opposite ends together.

3|| Attach waistband to skirt by threading top of skirt through closed waistband - so the skirt lays inside the waistband - and stitch into place.

UPCYCLED DENIM SKIRT TUTORIAL

As promised I will show you how to make your own denim pencil from an old pair of jeans to complete your summer wardrobe. You will need a pair of old jeans, a sewing machine, tape measure, chalk, thread & pins and a craft knife for distressing - I chose a pair of stretchy denims since it gives a little more around the hip area but non-stretch jeans will be fine too.

1|| find a suitable pair of jeans (my sample is a size 8)
2|| on my sample I measured ca.27cm from top of waistband at side seam to determine cut off line
3|| mark with chalk and repeat on opposite side seam (includes 1cm seam allowance)
4|| cut off denim legs in straight (this is important) line and prepare bottom half
5|| prepare top half of skirt
6|| join top & bottom halves of skirt by pinning in place first before you sew them together
7|| add distress by scratching & slicing denim in desired places, finish off with a wash and fray extra if you wish!

Please let me know how you get on & show me a snapshot of your version on instagram :))

FIXING FASHION

War on Want is a UK based charity that fights poverty in developing countries together with grassroots organisations and people affected by globalisation.  Especially since the Rana Plaza factory collapse the fashion world woke up to the ugly truth of globalisation, I remember I did! Instead of fostering growth through innovation and passing on knowledge to the people & communities in the countries that are manufacturing our cheap clothing, globalisation shifted the power to huge transnational companies who started operating free of any social, economic or environmental concern.

Fast fashion is one big problem of our commercial clothing industry. It exists because of the huge consumer demand for incredibly low priced fashion, which creates a vicious cycle where one feeds the other...  I decided I no longer want to be part of it because at the end of the day we as consumers have the power to choose (wisely;)

To reduce my fashion consumption I set myself a wardrobe challenge to not buy any new clothes and instead either swap, buy vintage or refurbish!  I have to be honest, I do fancy something new to wear every so often and it is only natural that you go off certain shapes after a while!
This summer I started to scan my wardrobe for things that I still like but which I am not wearing for one reason or another.  First thing I chose was this leopard-print top.  I absolutely love animal prints but found the shape slightly unflattering.  To introduce a little fabric interest and translate it into a more drapey silhouette I inserted some metallic black jesrey left overs and fixed my need for new ;)

STEP BY STEP

If you have similar tops or tees you want to fix-up for a new summer look you can follow the step by step upcycle-tutorial.

FEATHERED CHIC

Feathers seem to be an obvious choice given the season - so I thought it the perfect time to introduce the new feather-printed PreSpoked Bomber Jacket which we made entirely from silk left overs and preloved cycling jerseys.  This is the first prototype and we're so proud of how it turned out!!  Soon the jacket will be available to order, so stay tuned and Happy Easter everyone:))

TREND | Jean-ious

1 recycle rug indigo

2 denim jacket

3 camper seat

4 tie dye jeans

Berlin Fashion Week was hosting some great trade fairs last week where I discovered two labels producing stunning and at the same time absolutely consciously made Jeans.  

Wunderwerk from Germany impressed with a authentic denim range tapping into one of the big trends this season with their bold tie-dye finishes.  Their jeans are designed and produced with a minimal environmental impact in mind.

Nudie Jeans from Sweden showcased an eclectic and well developed range of crafted high quality denim pieces.  The brand provides an in-depth production guide for each garment they sell on their web site.  That way the customer can trace back their jeans and find exact information of where, how and by whom it's been made.  The concept of breaking-in, repairing, re-using and recycling jeans is explained in great detail on their homepage and very popular with their regulars who can redeem old jeans for a discount on a new pair.  The gorgeous denim rug and camper chairs are just a few upcycled products that have made a come-back out of the factory lab onto the shop floor.

Highlight of the presented collection were the customized and printed denim jackets with a reminiscent feel of retro to it - totally in tune with my current denim obsession :))

HAPPY | New Jeans

My new year started on a fast beat collaborating on creating a catwalk look for ecological denim label sey - fashion.  The assignment was to create tops to complement the new Autumn Winter collection of organic jeans.  Tuning in with the seasons denim revival I wanted to go for a head-to-toe denim look upcycling the label's jeans styles that had been classed as damaged or factory seconds.

This was an extremely exciting project to get involved with, even more so since I've recently been thinking of solutions to re-use all the preluvd denim trousers that I have packed away in storage!  Denim is an excellent material to work with and creates beautiful and bold silhouettes - but can still be draped and generate a lot of movement.

I decided on a tunic shape drawing inspiration from the clean lines of Bauhaus architecture.  I also attempted a denim cap for the first time ever and loved re-assembling the trouser leg seams for a deconstructed but neat look.  The most exciting thing about working with organic denim is knowing that it all has been manufactured with minimal water waste and low energy consumption.  It was definitely worth it and felt really rewarding giving those jeans a new live...

The finished outfit will be shown at next week's Salonshow featured by Greenshowroom Berlin. Whoop:))  Good times!

NEWCOMER | Black Rat

I love watching graduate fashion shows, for one it triggers beautiful nostalgia for an awesome time of my life but also captures the free spirit of generation NOW!  This year's ESMOD's international catwalk was no different. Held in Berlin, it brought together international talent from ESMOD design schools around the world.  

Things got really exciting when Oslo label Black Rat rocked the catwalk sharing its avant garde vision of street style with the crowd.  The collection explored the universe of booming Nordic concept band Deathcrush, ticking all the right boxes on skilled design craft and ethical choice of fabrics.  Designer Siri Sveen Haarland made it her signature to support & promote newcomer musicians from the Norwegian underground - in this case through prominent placement prints on oversized Tees and patched on leggings.  The clever cut & immediate fabric appeal of the closing bomber jacket was a great round up of the apparent: rat is the new black ;)

photography: Posh Photography

BLOUSE | Nostalgia

I sometimes can't help feeling a hint of emotional attachment when I upcycle clothes - especially if they used to belong to a loved one...When my nan passed away last spring I've inherited half her wardrobe.  Since then I've been thinking of ideas to give her clothes a second life and keep her memory close to me.   When I was in desperate need for a blouse in preparation for my latest summer holiday I had an idea:

I chose my nan's soft mint pastel granny top, the kind that come in never-creasing polyester with quite horrid iron-on plastic jewel designs (sorry:).  I picked it because I loved its level of colour for the summer & the fact that it was quite shapeless as I wanted the blouse to be a little oversized/ square around the shoulders.

I planned on taking mostly plain bottoms on my trip so I decided to add a little print interest to the blouse by replacing the centre panel with a gorgeous patterned strip of silk which came from fabric off cuts.  Here's how to:

one mark CF & central panel on front, width to be ca. 10 cm minus 1cm seam allowance either side
two unpick neckline of marked area, cut away central panel along line marked by inside pin
three measure length needed for contrast panel, add hem allowance, pin hem contrast panel
four pin & sew contrast centre panel to body
five close neck line
six shorten sleeves or tuck shoulders if needed

HI ON LIFE

I find it incredibly exciting to discover modern & unconventional clothes that have been produced consciously at the same time.
So naturally I was thrilled when I met with Arvid in his creative concept store HI ON LIFE bucking the fast fashion trend.  Key to Malmö's eco-scene the shop is perched above the crowd of local supermarkets, framing the entrance of alternative mini-mall Mitt Möllan.

Inside I was keen to see the shop's first own line, a joint effort with local fashion designer Olivia Thomasdotter.  With organic mesh crop tops, super-snug ankle pencil skirts & exaggerated coats made from upcycled door matts the exclusive mini- collection explores a modern world for style minded individuals with the courage to create change.

It was fantastic chatting to Arvid whilst trying on the entire shop - personal fav: the stunning oversized, black factory coat made from sustainable cotton.  Together with his partner Malin the duo's aim is to promote the things they love most - mixing fashion, art and style with a sustainable approach.

With a great focus on creativity HI ON LIFE stocks a new generation of eco-conscious labels: playful print designs by A QUESTION OF hang casually next to bright & bold Tees by London's LAZY OAF setting a nice contrast to obsessive minimalist Kiwi brand kowtow.  And as for the lush trainers, they give key to it all. Made in Brazil, from organic fair trade cotton and veggie tanned leather Veja footwear proposes cultural change by employing socially excluded people.
Trust me, when in Malmö you deffo want to step inside this store.

BREEZY CHEEKS

is one of my summer make up essentials for a 100% fresh look with a sheer & natural finish.  I've been using UNE for a while now and love the light and matt texture of their foundation and eye shadows as well as their aim for organic and natural ingredients.
B02 blusher has been my favourite so far - with its cream-to-powder texture it's easy to apply with your finger and a quick fix if you're just popping out or going to the beach.  The not too pinky, soft rose shade is perfect for my paler skin tone & I use it to apply contour just under my cheekbones, on top of my sunscreen or daily moisturiser.  To round off the look I add a few dashes of Lavera's soft glowing highlighter for bright cheek bones and inside corners of my eyes.

Like with my wardrobe I prefer a limited selection of beauty products that do several jobs in one. Blushers are also a great way to spice up your going out make up.  In combination with a light foundation and a natural lip care / gloss you can add a hint of colour to both lips and cheeks. Done!

ELSIEN GRINGHUIS | ELEMENTARY ELEGANCE

Back to basics has always been key at the house of Elsien Gringhuis - the young designer from Arnhem / Holland is known for her simple elegance and blending clean cuts with strong appeal by playing with unusual print techniques, silhouette and fabric interest.

Her new collection for Spring / Summer 2015 influenced by reigning principles of function and form which showcased at GreenShowroom's lush venue Hotel Adlon was no different.  Under the visionary title Elementary Elegance she takes fundamental pattern cutting to another level where garments adapt geometric shapes of circles and squares, erasing side seams on the way. The results are stunning, sculpture-like, coat dresses and angular tops made in fluidly silks with a strong & continuous focus on innovative print.  Long time collaborator and resourceful print designer Aliki van der Kruijs presented her method using ink sourced from printer waste, applying strong detail to sleeve and hem details.

Focusing on the timeless good looks of modern separates which can be layered up suiting changing climate conditions and combined with existing wardrobe pieces, the label clearly distances itself from the antiquated four-seasons-in-fashion model and puts emphasis on aesthetics, quality & practicality rather than trend.  Promoting a transparent production line, minimum waste & the use of organic fibers at the same time, Elsien Gringhuis gives us a strong outlook of hope how fashion can be consumed in future.

photos top & bottom:
photography: Sabrina Bongiovanni,  hair & make up: Charlotte Niketic @ House of Orange,  model: Anastassia @ Paparazzi Model Management,  prints: Aliki van der Kruijs

ISABELL DE HILLERIN | BEYOND

Isabell de Hillerin has a powerful vision:  to integrate modern silhouettes with values of handcrafted and slow fashion. The idea to look outside perceived limitations and rather concentrate on what she sees as fundamental principles like using handmade textiles by local artisans in Romania and Moldova to add to her gorgeous designs has been her signature since the start of her label back in 2009.

With her new collection Beyond the designer invites you to take some time to reflect on the essential in our fast moving environment and translates her inspiration into a strong & extremely wearable collection for S/S 2015. Sheer layers give way to beautiful clean cut silky tops and dresses in whites, muted greys and powdered neutrals.  Hidden tucks and pleats on below knee length culottes and draped blouses redefine an effortless elegance with an urban twist.  My absolute favourite pieces were the grey cape layered shirt and the white patent brogues - top of my personal wish list!

I'm thrilled to see a great designer whose production line is as transparent as the beautiful layers on the girls she sends out on the catwalk.  But what I love most about this collection is that the garments are investment pieces rather than seasonal fads - Isabell de Hillerin is here to stay!

NEWCOMER | RAMONA HUPPERT

Newcomer upcyclist Ramona Huppert brought a breeze of fresh air and diversity to the Lavera Showfloor stage with her catwalk presentation last week.  Under the name Urban Mountain Journey the designer explored ways of modern nomads and our emotional attachment to the things we surround ourselves with.  What is home - is it a place or the things we own? I've contemplated this as long as I can remember especially because I get bored in one place very quickly and have a habit of changing post codes almost every couple of years.  

Huppert has come up with a clever solution for everyone who loves taking their personal things with them at all times - even furniture!   With a touch of avant garde her experimental creations serve more than one purpose. The boxy jumper made from an old leather arm chair folds up to be a stool - providing the user with familiar cosiness of home when travelling. The backpack transforms into a messenger bag, saving you having to take to many bags on hols - the fact that it's made from leather left overs is an absolute bonus!  The entire collection is a great example for resourceful choice of material, innovative cut and exceptional design – giving us a vision of a bright future!

REET AUS | UPCYCLING - AT - LARGE

A fanatastic example for promoting upcycling on an industrial scale is Estonian designer Reet Aus who showcased the new collection of her label UpMade at the lush Hotel Adlon, venue of GreenShowroom Berlin.

"Our goal," she says, "is to influence consumer awareness and to aim for upcycling to be implemented into a regular production process."  To make this happen the label teamed up with partner Beximco, one of Bangladesh's biggest garment producing factories, using pre-consumer waste as source material for its accessories, gear and apparel. This way it manages to save on average 70% of water and create 88% less CO2 emission for each new garment in this collection. I was totally thrilled by Reet's conscious approach and clever way of combining textile left over with commercial design - the new collection include cut - about blouses and denim dresses, relaxed unisex boyfriend jeans from 100% recycled denim and gorgeous snug pencil skirts. One of my favourite pieces is the white arrow UpShirt featuring some great pattern cutting skills for the arrow centre piece - the only way is up, I reckon!

Photography: @ Reet Aus

UPCYCLED DENIM

When The Upcycling Fashion Store put on an #InsideOut Photo Shoot for Fashion Revolution Germany last month I took the opportunity to upcycle an old pair of jeans and a leopard print cardi for ROHstoff.

Although the actual Fashion Revolution Day (24/04) just passed I believe the campaigns central question 'WHO MADE YOUR CLOTHES?' is valid all year round! Especially if you're upcycling your own unwanted or damaged textiles/ clothes to contribute to a more conscious way of consuming fashion! So here you go, have a look at the tutorial and get inventive! This also works really well if you want to repair any jeans with holes around the knee area, especially if you have little monsters like I do who just love sliding on their knees!

SKIM YOUR TEXTILE BIN

Search your cupboards for some old pair(s) of jeans and any other top with sleeves that you want to mix with your jeans!  I chose my fav pair of skinny jeans which had a hole and an old cardigan I once bought in a second hand shop but hardly ever wore.

STEP BY STEP

You will also need scissors, thread, pins and a sewing machine

Check here for the step by step tutorial.

DUTCH ECO DESIGN

 

 

Last Wednesday it was showtime once again for Ethical Fashion in Berlin. This time the venue for the Green Showroom had been moved to the Kronprinzenpalais. A stunning building with a lot of pre-wall fall retro charm and a long trail of history.  It has hosted the Hohenzollern Kings and seen a few heads of states in its time.  I strongly suspect catwalks & gorgeous girls in stunning frocks were a first though.

Arriving in one of the convenient shuttle taxis connecting the E-werk site with its posh and not-so-little-anymore-sister site we had a good browse around the exhibition where Ala and I met new & familiar faces! 

Having set the bar high with her S/S 2014 collection Dutch designer Elsien Gringhuis didn't fail to deliver yet another strong and intelligent collection. For Winter 2014 she was exploring the idea that all things connect.  Situations, people and events respond to signals - good or bad vibes you send out and not everything is what it seems at first sight. The gorgeous sleeveless organic wool coat for example can be zipped off half length, worn as a jacket or swapped for another contrast bottom. Elsien stayed true to her classic, angular and elegant signature with a beautifully cut, boxy sleeved, grey marl sweat top and introduced natural rhubarb tanned leather a collaboration with German brand DeepMello as a new material for Winter.  The black sweatshirt with leather lined front detail is my new fav for next season and I just had enough time to give it a quick try as seats were going fast for the evening scheduled runway showcase featuring Dutch Eco Design.

Dutch designers always had a strong presence at the Greenshowroom since it first appeared on the Berlin fashion horizon in 2009. The show was a special treat for this season sponsored by the Kingdom of the Netherlands.  Another brand featured in the show was Dutch brand Studio Jux who made it their goal to look AND do good as they build up their label using only sustainable materials.

'Jux' is German for fun and by employing and fairly paying tailors from Nepal one of the poorest counrties in the world they're making sure that their fairly paid and treated employees have plenty to laugh about. Their mantra is: 'My tailor is my rockstar' - deffo a label to watch ❤

ON WITH THE OLD...

Since downsizing my wardrobe I find that whatever the occasion I can put together an outfit in under 15 minutes and without being totally distraught after not being able to decide what to wear.  For last night's New Year's Eve celebration I flicked through my rail to re-discover this gorgeous Armani all-sequins split pencil which I bought in a small second hand boutique in the back streets of Covent Garden way back when still living in London. 

I love a bit of sparkle especially at this dreary time of year - the granddad cardigan takes off the OTT edge and paired with the chunky ankle boots I felt comfortable and chic, ready to welcoming the new year with a smile.

And as the first day of the new year gently draws to its end I've decided to plan for less, minimize my stuff and remember that whatever happens, whether I feel love, frustration or excitement...longing or sadness, whatever I'll do or wont do...for better or worse, the curtains will come up on a fabulous new show tomorrow - may the good times continue in 2014 

❤

NECK & HEART WARMING ❤

Ahh, Christmas - wrap up & feel the LOVE ❤ Just in time for the festive season my friend and designer Martina Lewe launched the A/W 2014 collection for her label Mein Frollein featuring gorgeous scarves and hats spun from super soft Merino wool and with thoughts of charity.  Every season she picks a different project to support children in need with 3-5 € from each sale of her colourful cozyness.  This year she's helping to fund a traineeship program for young adults in Timisoara, Romania.  To add to the label's meaningful approach, she produces all her accessories locally right here in Germany. The only thing missing now is snow!

GREEN PASSION

Just your usual Friday night hang out I found myself sitting at the house of Representatives in Berlin next to an impressive set of stairs forming the centre piece of a lush catwalk.  As a finale to GREEN PASSION DAY the hosts, members of Germany's Green Party teamed up with Lette - Verein's fashion design class and staged a dazzling runway show featuring key aspects of low-impact fashion.
Designers sensationally mastered their different objectives ranging from using GOTS certified fabrics via upcycling preluved men's coats/ jackets to questioning the demand for fast fashion and creating timeless & effortlessly chic pieces. Follow their tracks & feel the passion ❤

Also massive congratulations to upcyclists Carina Bischoff and Arianna Nicoletti from UFS Berlin for their involvement at Green passion day discussion panels and for being a driving force for sustainable fashion in Berlin!