PRESPOKED | by ROHstoff

For ROHstoff's most recent collaboration I've partnered up with cycling-pro Darren.  The new line PreSpoked will feature casual wardrobe items as well as accessories upcycled from specialist cycling gear to fit an active as well as social life style - watch this space... :)

FASHION HACKERS

1 knitted patch Jessie English

2 Tennis Star Jessie English, photograph Shaun Lucas

3 Trainer Trafo Pop

4 Electronics & Textile Institute Berlin

If you always wanted to knit yourself a crazy pattern hat or a cozy jumper but had no idea how to (or no time like me) - you needn't have worried! The hacked knitting machine from All Yarns Are Beautiful (AYAB) uses an Arduino board which controls the colour changes and plugs into your computer via USB so now you can start knitting from your laptop :))

The AYAB makers upgraded an old Brother knitting machine by replacing the existing control board with an electronic one which they developed and because the AYAB controller uses all 200 needles of the machine you can come up with almost limitless pattern designs.

It was one of the coolest things on display from the Electronic + Textile Institute Berlin (ETIB) who exhibited at Berlin Fashion Week's FashionTech Lab last month.

ETIB's former artist in residence Jessie English has been experimenting with the hacked knitting machine to build up an intriguing portfolio. The designer's knitted tennis sleeve is an absolute must - have for the has-it-all bachelor.  It carries the spontaneous notion of a sweet-wrapper, underlining her approach of refreshing untaintedness.  By integrating digital technology into her work with the use of unconventional materials Jessie leads an extremely inspiring path to textile innovation.  

Wearable technologies are no doubt the new stars on the fashion horizon and have made revolutionary progress - not long and we'll be able to print the cool Trafo Pop trainers ourselves!!

BERLIN | AW15.16

DARK CRUSADER
1 AutumnWinter15.16 Odeur, photo Posh
2 Wool Cape Elsien Gringhuis
3 Suit of Armour Leather Jacket & Leather Shorts Phoebe Heess
edited by me

COOL AS ICE
1 Kimono Cardi Komana
2 Staciatella Jumper Here Today Here Tomorrow
3 Sorbet Cardigan Studio Jux
4 Felt Like Heaven Jessie English
edited by me

Dark Crusader
Protective textile innovations and crusader-worthy capes were a prominent message from many Berlin collections this season.  Bavaria-based designer Phoebe Heess was exploring suits of armour and reflective lights as protection for her everyday super heroine.  Her square-shoulder leather jacket exhibited at SEEK's FashionTech Lab is made with Kevlar inserts - a light weight fibre originating from combat clothing with safe-keeping and cut resistant qualities.

Dutch design house Elsien Gringhuis presented chapter two of their collection of stories.  The beautifully draped cape made from 100% wool offers protection and comfort at the same time, regardless if you are on the road or relaxing on your couch.

Disguising her vulnerability the Odeur woman sported a courageous look in preparation for the darker season.  The oversized bomber jacket with emphasised shoulders, featured on the Swedish label's AW15 catwalk, conveyed a need for protection in modern society and is perfectly suited to keep you wrapped up next season.

Cool as Ice
Mmm.  Scrumptious looking ice cream colours emerged as inspiration for the latest collection of socially committed and environmental conscious knitwear label Here There Here Tomorrow. Flavours like stracciatella and peppermint translated into chocolate sprinkled jumpers and cozy hats topped with pale green pom poms made from 100% biodegradable fibres.  Showing for the first time in Berlin at the Ethical Fashion Show the British brand is just going to melt your heart with their playful approach to current, high quality designs combined with fair-trade craftsmanship.

Award winning dutch design Studio Jux whipped up a delightful mix of berry sorbets with this lovely long and chunky cardigan.  Blended with the luxurious blouse in soft pistachio which features closed-loop eco fibre Tencel this look also captures Autumn's fascination with contrasting textures.
Adding to the heavenly mix of Vanilla & Co. is London label Komana's cream Kimono cardigan with hand-painted dots on organic cotton jersey as well as Jessie English's knitted felt slippers - they're just the coolest accessory to brighten up a gloomy winter's day:))

FISHERMAN'S FRIEND

1 Knitted Swatch Studio Jux
2 AutumnWinter15.16 Esther Perbandt, photo Posh

3 Homeland Collection Inspiration & Knitted Outfit Doppelganger

3 Fisherman Hat MeinFrollein

4 AutumnWinter 15.16 Rebekka Ruétz, photo Posh
edited by me

Causing a storm this Berlin Fashion Week was a strong sentiment for fine quality knitwear influenced by traditional garment detailing of hard working fishermen translated into big flowing silhouettes on skirts & coats and paired with modern, constructed patterns.

The designer of Icelandic newcomer label Doppelganger took inspiration from 17th century heritage fishermen textiles and re-worked traditional patterns into symmetrical composed knits. Delicate leggings and second-skin-like tops made from sustainable wool and mulberry silk blended yarns delivered a compelling aesthetic of balance and wellbeing, leaving you with nothing but a clear conscience.

Transparency on and off the catwalk was a popular source of inspiration at Esther Perbandt.  The designer made waves earlier last year when she went on a trip to research local textile production conditions in Bangladesh.  Her new Autumn Winter collection featured lovely light woven knits with a sheer quality to it reminding me of the structure of fishing nets.  They made for a bold statement when placed against the clean cut woollen coats featured on the catwalk, promoting a confident and modern look with a soft feminine angle.

Comfort and purity were buzzwords at knitted accessories brand MeinFrollein.  Absolute highlight were the soft merino fishermen beanies which can be worn #InsideOut without revealing any conflicting labels.  The production is fair and Germany based - there's nothing fishy about that ;)

TREND | Jean-ious

1 recycle rug indigo

2 denim jacket

3 camper seat

4 tie dye jeans

Berlin Fashion Week was hosting some great trade fairs last week where I discovered two labels producing stunning and at the same time absolutely consciously made Jeans.  

Wunderwerk from Germany impressed with a authentic denim range tapping into one of the big trends this season with their bold tie-dye finishes.  Their jeans are designed and produced with a minimal environmental impact in mind.

Nudie Jeans from Sweden showcased an eclectic and well developed range of crafted high quality denim pieces.  The brand provides an in-depth production guide for each garment they sell on their web site.  That way the customer can trace back their jeans and find exact information of where, how and by whom it's been made.  The concept of breaking-in, repairing, re-using and recycling jeans is explained in great detail on their homepage and very popular with their regulars who can redeem old jeans for a discount on a new pair.  The gorgeous denim rug and camper chairs are just a few upcycled products that have made a come-back out of the factory lab onto the shop floor.

Highlight of the presented collection were the customized and printed denim jackets with a reminiscent feel of retro to it - totally in tune with my current denim obsession :))

SHADES OF DENIM

I'm extremely liking this new all over denim trend which seems to be happening everywhere on and off the catwalks at the moment.

The recent issue of Fräulein magazine did a whole spread on it with the fresh faced American Kelly Mittendorf. The story is a great source of inspiration if you're looking to upcycle your old jeans into some new tops or dresses!
Stay tuned for some more trends coming through from this weeks Berlin fashion spectacle - whoop :))

photos: Jay Odell for Fräulein magazine

editing: Annett Borg

HAPPY | New Jeans

My new year started on a fast beat collaborating on creating a catwalk look for ecological denim label sey - fashion.  The assignment was to create tops to complement the new Autumn Winter collection of organic jeans.  Tuning in with the seasons denim revival I wanted to go for a head-to-toe denim look upcycling the label's jeans styles that had been classed as damaged or factory seconds.

This was an extremely exciting project to get involved with, even more so since I've recently been thinking of solutions to re-use all the preluvd denim trousers that I have packed away in storage!  Denim is an excellent material to work with and creates beautiful and bold silhouettes - but can still be draped and generate a lot of movement.

I decided on a tunic shape drawing inspiration from the clean lines of Bauhaus architecture.  I also attempted a denim cap for the first time ever and loved re-assembling the trouser leg seams for a deconstructed but neat look.  The most exciting thing about working with organic denim is knowing that it all has been manufactured with minimal water waste and low energy consumption.  It was definitely worth it and felt really rewarding giving those jeans a new live...

The finished outfit will be shown at next week's Salonshow featured by Greenshowroom Berlin. Whoop:))  Good times!

UPCYCLED | Christmas Cards

Making cards and little decorations is one of the best ways to get into the Christmas spirit I find, well apart from hitting one of Berlin's many gorgeous Xmas markets... (The vegan market on Sophienstraße, in Mitte is next on my list ;)

To help you get in a festive mood this weekend I've prepared a little upcycling tutorial for Christmas cards using furnishing catalogues. Since I'm totally addicted to modern furniture I always collect a few catalogues throughout the year.  Most of them include beautiful imagery and are way too cool to throw in the recycling.

SKIM YOUR RECYCLING BIN

So skim your paper bin or mag basket and get slicing.  Any close up photographs, or funny slogans that you can somehow add the word Christmas to are suitable.
I've had a little play with some different fonts before I printed my captions on the back side of used printer paper.  For a base you want a nice sturdy plain carton or thin cardboard.  I had a catalogue and a few old calendars with plain white backs and covers which are perfect card backing material!  All that's left then is to stick your cut out captions to your images and finally to your base.

Handmade Christmas cards always add a very personal touch and by upcycling pre-used paper and carton you can experiment with great images by collaging them or working on top of them.  Either way it can be an exciting and new Christmas tradition that will also leave you with a clean green conscience ❤

UPCYCLED | Wallprints

When it gets to the time of the year that I want to hibernate because of chillier and chillier temperatures outside I start wanting to re-decorate our flat. I absolutely love our flat as it is big and very light even in Winter but big walls can look quite bare & dull even on sunny days.  So to cheer up my surroundings I started by browsing through old favourite fashion mags - always a reliable source of inspiration whatever the reason (and season).

Since I'm a huge fan of slogan prints I was very excited when I came across these i-D magazine pages.  Using a scalpel blade I cut them out very neatly and framed them with re-painted second hand frames.  To give the prints another angle and to emphasise their message you can even back them with monochrome patterns from magazines or gift wrap! It's definitely a cheap and cheerful way to re-fresh your walls - and very satisfying knowing you made it yourself.  I feel very pleased with myself now when I walk around the flat ;)

NEWCOMER | Black Rat

I love watching graduate fashion shows, for one it triggers beautiful nostalgia for an awesome time of my life but also captures the free spirit of generation NOW!  This year's ESMOD's international catwalk was no different. Held in Berlin, it brought together international talent from ESMOD design schools around the world.  

Things got really exciting when Oslo label Black Rat rocked the catwalk sharing its avant garde vision of street style with the crowd.  The collection explored the universe of booming Nordic concept band Deathcrush, ticking all the right boxes on skilled design craft and ethical choice of fabrics.  Designer Siri Sveen Haarland made it her signature to support & promote newcomer musicians from the Norwegian underground - in this case through prominent placement prints on oversized Tees and patched on leggings.  The clever cut & immediate fabric appeal of the closing bomber jacket was a great round up of the apparent: rat is the new black ;)

photography: Posh Photography

BLOUSE | Nostalgia

I sometimes can't help feeling a hint of emotional attachment when I upcycle clothes - especially if they used to belong to a loved one...When my nan passed away last spring I've inherited half her wardrobe.  Since then I've been thinking of ideas to give her clothes a second life and keep her memory close to me.   When I was in desperate need for a blouse in preparation for my latest summer holiday I had an idea:

I chose my nan's soft mint pastel granny top, the kind that come in never-creasing polyester with quite horrid iron-on plastic jewel designs (sorry:).  I picked it because I loved its level of colour for the summer & the fact that it was quite shapeless as I wanted the blouse to be a little oversized/ square around the shoulders.

I planned on taking mostly plain bottoms on my trip so I decided to add a little print interest to the blouse by replacing the centre panel with a gorgeous patterned strip of silk which came from fabric off cuts.  Here's how to:

one mark CF & central panel on front, width to be ca. 10 cm minus 1cm seam allowance either side
two unpick neckline of marked area, cut away central panel along line marked by inside pin
three measure length needed for contrast panel, add hem allowance, pin hem contrast panel
four pin & sew contrast centre panel to body
five close neck line
six shorten sleeves or tuck shoulders if needed